Limit Lawn Size: Most turf grasses require 30% to 50% more water than shrubs and ground covers. Limit the use of grass and lawns to active picnicking and play areas. Shade in these areas will reduce moisture loss and make a cool area for children to play. If you do have a lawn, mow at least once per week, and try to cut no more than 1/3 of the grass blade, or ½ to ¾ of an inch at a time. Adjust your lawn mower to a higher setting. Taller blades of grass actually hold up better in the heat, because that little bit of extra shade helps to keep more moisure in the soil. If you mow the grass too short, root shock will cause your grass to turn yellow despite your watering!

Designing for Irrigation Zones: Avoid putting thirsty exotics with plants that do well in dry weather. Zone your plants so that each area has similar water needs. This will enable you to water more efficiently, and keep the plants healthier. Limit thirsty plants to small decorative borders around the house itself or in specific viewing areas or shady areas. While you're at it, call the Board of Water Supply at 270-7199 for more information.

Choosing Native Plants -- A Hawaiian Sense of Place: An out-of-place, thirsty landscape can slurp up ¾ of your home's water use. Plant shrubs and trees that nature designed to look green and full here on Maui without a lot of water. Make sure they get regular watering in the first year or two, to help them establish good, deep roots. Then, once they are grown in, you can cut back or stop watering, depending upon your location. At worst, in our hot, low southern areas an occasional, slow, and deep watering placed right at the roots should be enough to keep a climate adapted plant looking good even through the hot summer.

Find and Repair Leaks: Your garden hose and irrigation lines can carry thousands of gallons per day, so you can imagine a leak outdoors wastes a lot of water! Check and repair all of your outdoor fixtures regularly.

Irrigation Systems: Drip irrigation is designed to get water slowly and directly to the roots of plants. This not only saves water, but for some plants it helps to reduce the risk of diseases. Sprinklers with fine, high sprays lose a lot of water to evaporation. So, if you do use a sprinkler for certain plants, go for the sort with low, flat spray patterns and larger drops of water. Check timers on irrigation controllers and adjust them monthly to water appropriately for the season. (Contrary to original expectations, the use of automated sprinkler systems does not save water because owners seldom adjust for variations in weather and humidity.) For small grassy areas, watering by hand can actually reduce waste! But if you use a hose, set a kitchen timer or buy a timer attachment that hooks on between the faucet and hose. This will help remind you not to over-water one area. Use a soaker hose on slopes to reduce run-off.

Watering: If you do have a lawn, water only when it needs it. A good deep soaking is better than a light sprinkling. If you water too frequently and lightly, plants develop shallower roots and become less drought resistant! A good way to see if your lawn needs watering is to step on the grass. If it springs back up when you move, it doesn't need water. If it stays flat, it could use a bit. Avoid watering in the heat of the day. By 10 a.m., the sun is up and so is the heat. This will rob your lawn's moisture. In dry areas you can also choose evenings to water.

Watching the Weather: As simple-minded as it sounds...never water while it's raining! Many people forget to follow this simple rule. Install rain-shutoffs or soil moisture sensors on automated systems. Teach your family to turn off your irrigation in the rain. You also create "weather conditions" by how and where you plant. Sunny, exposed areas and slopes need to be watered more frequently than shady areas. Place your plants appropriately.

Getting to the Root: Root feeder or water aerator probes around trees and bushes will help direct water where it is needed. Even for the biggest trees, you don't need to go any deeper than 18 inches. 8 to 12 inches is big enough for small trees and shrubs. You can also build a watering basin in the soil around the base of your plants to help the water to soak in deeply. Drip systems are good for this too.

Soils & Mulch: Soils are not all alike. Clay soils can typically take from ¼ to ½" of water per hour before water starts running off and is wasted. Sandy soils require more frequent, shorter watering. You can have your soils tested. Call the Ag Extension Service at MCC for advice (244-3242). Compost or other organic material will also help soils hold moisture and support heartier, more drought-tolerant plants. Try leaves, grass clippings, manure, aged sawdust, wood chips, or humic acid. Mulching is an excellent way to hold moisture, keep the ground from overheating, and discourage weeds. You should also loosen the soil by rototilling or spading while you add the organic matter. Looser soil can make a healthier lawn.