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The homeowners of the '90s are embracing conservation landscaping, or Xeriscape^TM, with a passion. The latest trend in landscape design combines the practicality of water conservation with the creative beauty of conventional landscaping.

Conservation landscaping uses the same basic principles used since the beginning of time by the grand master herself -- Mother Nature. Borrowing liberally from her landscape plan, conservation landscaping groups plants into separate areas of the landscape according to their various water needs. The result is a significant reduction in the amount of water needed for plants to thrive.

Substantially reducing the amount of water used to support a landscape design does not mean diminishing its beauty. Homeowners around the country are discovering that conservation landscaping is not just rocks and cactus! Conservation landscaping allows the creation of any style or image desired -- from formal backyard gardens replete with fountains and clipped hedges to lush, domestic wildernesses using native flowers, shrubs, and grasses. Conservation landscaping does not dictate style -- you do!

Conserving our precious natural resources is a shared responsibility. The economic use of water is a good way to grow a healthy garden while saving money and time. A water-saving landscape not only enhances the beauty of your property, it also increases the selling potential and value of your home.

Begin by envisioning how you want your yard to look:

• Do you need a deck with lots of room for entertaining?
• Do children need a large lawn area for romping?
• Are you a backyard vegetable gardener?
• Do you need privacy? How much?
• Where are the sunny and shady areas? Note the location of existing rocks, slopes, drainage areas, structures, and plants.

Plant selection and placement are key elements of conservation landscaping. The use of low water-use plants is only one aspect of water-saving landscaping. Many medium or high water-use plants can be used if they are grouped together and watered together by area.

Full irrigation areas: These areas are usually expanses of grass. Grass needs more water than other plants and should be placed only in areas that get a lot of use or are highly visible.

Moderate irrigation areas: Plants and shrubs in these areas take advantage of some natural runoff from downspouts, driveways, and patios. For instance, an entryway using groundcovers and low or moderate water-use shrubs will require little watering.

Low irrigation areas: Border areas containing low or moderate water-demanding flowers, shrubs, and trees provide the greatest water savings. Bubble or drip irrigation applies water directly to individual plants via small tubing or emitters. Drip irrigation saves water because only the plant's root receives water. Very little is lost to evaporation.

85% of all landscape problems are directly related to overwatering.
A properly designed and operated irrigation system can reduce water
use by 20 percent or more each year.

• Grass is best watered with sprinklers. Trees, shrubs, garden flowers, and groundcovers can be watered with drip irrigation.
• Irrigation equipment should include heads that deliver a pattern of water close to the ground. This makes the water less likely to be lost to wind and evaporation.
• Individual earth or decorative basins around trees and shrubs hold water until it seeps into the ground. Shallow irrigation ditches next to rows of plants serve the same purpose.

• A tree's shade lowers air and soil temperature. In fact, air temperature may be reduced as much as 12° to 20°F. This in turn reduces the moisture loss of nearby plants. Evergreens block unsatisfactory views and lessen winds. Large deciduous trees provide summer shade.
• Reduce grassy areas wherever possible. Although grass is still the most durable plant for traffic, it also requires the most water -- three to four feet in an average year! Grass is best separated from other plantings so that it can be watered separately.
• Place plants with high water requirements in areas that receive a lot of water naturally, like drainage ways, depressions, or at the bottom of hills.
• Slopes and hills should have a groundcover or spreading plant that keeps soil erosion down, but doesn't require mowing.
• Place shrubs away from the house's foundation. Frequent watering may damage its function.
• Use mulch in gardens, around shrubs and trees, in planting beds, and in borders. Mulches cover and cool the soil and discourage evaporation, weed growth, and erosion. Mulches also provide interesting textures that enhance the landscape. Organic mulches, like bark and wood chips, are the best. Inorganic mulches, like rock and gravel, also conserve water.

• Make necessary grade changes first. Be sure that water flows away from the house.
• Lay out and install irrigation systems before plants are installed. Use sprinklers that throw big drops of water close to the ground. Smaller drops and mist often evaporate before they hit the ground. Water only in the morning or late afternoon, when evaporation rates are their lowest. Group plants with similar water needs together to avoid water waste and reduce maintenance.
• Proper soil preparation is crucial. Before planting anything, have the soil analyzed.
• Soil improvement allows for better absorption and retention of water. Soils with organic matter provide beneficial nutrients to plants. Organic matter can be added to the soil before planting, or before installing any irrigation system.
• Planting in mulch areas can be done over several years' time. Placing mulch around new turf gives the project a finishted look, helps plants retain moisture, and reduces weed growth.

If you would like more information about conservation landscaping,
contact your local landscape architect or garden shop or the Department of Water Supply at 270-7199.

Xeriscape^TM is the registered trademark of the National Xeriscape Council, Inc.

Courtesy of: American Water Works Association